buying a new computer

My main computer is a windows XP with pentium 4 (3.0 Ghz), 1GB ram, a 125GB hard drive, and an old graphics card. I'm on the computer all the time, so I really want better one.

I was told that it's too old to be upgraded, so I need to buy a new one. I was told that it's cheaper to buy a pre-built computer than to buy all the individual parts. I've never built a computer anyways, so I'll go with a pre-built computer. I'm looking for a gaming/multitasking computer in the $600-$900 price range. I also will be doing HD video editing on it.

I looked at newegg.com, and they had 2 particular computers I'm interested in:

computer with intel i5 2500k - $700
Do you recommend I buy this?

computer with intel i7 2600k - $850
Do you recommend I buy this? can I trust it despite zero reviews?

whoever told you prebuilts were cheaper were completely bullshitting you. There are quite a few pros in bulding your own computer aside from avoiding expensive premiums, including simplified and freedom of upgrading and adding to your system, becoming more informed about your pc, and you don't have to deal with bloatware or hardware faults made by cheap companies to name some. It's a great learning experience and pays off well, lots of us would be ready to help you build your first pc, along with the 3 videos on building on from ground up by newegg on youtube. I suggest you check them out and even consider looking at the DIY combos on newegg atleast before you come to a decision.

If you look hard enough you could find something similar for cheaper.. or buy a barebones kit.. 409$ plus the Gpu is i like 59 bucks and it doesn't need 600 watts to run it really.. 450 is fine. Add a 100 and get the i7. It more cheaper if you find the deals and piece it.. sometimes you can build that 800$ rig for 350$.

The guy who told me that was a Licensed engineer, though he probably doesn't closely track the computer industry.

I am willing to build my own computer, in fact, I initially wanted to build my own computer. The problem is that whenever I add up all the parts I would want (including the $130 windows 7 OS), The total price would be more than the pre-made computers interested in. I probably suck at finding the right builds; that's my fault' It's mostly the OS that's preventing my build from being a better value.

I'm don't really understand what animefreak said about a "barebones kit", but if they're as cheap as he says they can be, I'll try to figure out what it is.

Basicly a kit of all the stuff needed for building.. parting without having to look at all the different sections and shit.
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/category/category_tlc.asp?CatId=31&name=Barebone-Kits&cm_sp=Masthead-_-Computer%20Parts-_-Spot%2002
minus the gpu and windows... keyboard/mouse cords... ect ect. You can just pirate windows.

You can always go offsite and look at best buy or dell.. but expect to pay for low end crap you can build for a fourth of the price... most of the times.. i actually typing on a laptop i stolen from best buy clearance pile.. i use to be the photo guy there.

Well let's take your budget into consideration, and ask a few questions.

1) What peripherals do you have available at the moment? (Operating systems, monitors, keyboards, mice, speakers, internal PCI cards etc)

2) What'll you be doing? - Gaming and video editing/encoding? keep in mind that you want a cpu with higher clock rates and cores and a bit more ram than a normal user.

3) Which brand CPU are you looking at? Intel and AMD both have their pros and cons, but ideally Intel has had higher performance for higher prices, whilst AMD follows close for a budget price - since you're interested in both gaming and video encoding, realize first off that many games can't utilize more than 2-4 cores of your cpu at a time, meaning that it comes down to core clock speed and your GPU. For video encoding however, many applications in the field can fully utilize your cpu. I'm not too familiar with intel's i3/5/7 series of cpu's, but performance wise AMD's Phenom X4 and X6 (4 and 6 cores respectively) pack a lot of power for their price which falls nicely in your budget.

4) Which GPU are you planning to get? What resolution do you plan to run your games at? If you plan to go with a nice 1080p monitor (which will run some money off your budget) or use your hdtv, you may want a higher middle end card to fit your budget. Cards like AMD's 6850/6870 or Nvidia gtx 560 Ti which is a bit more but still affordable.

5) How much ram do you want? Generally more ram means smoother system performance, but there's no need to overdo it. Most games don't utilize over 2 gigs of ram and as such 4 or 8 gigs of ram is affordable and plenty for any kind of gaming usage.

Your budget of $800 gives a lot of room to work with even if you don't have peripherals, and keep in mind that windows 7 can easily be pirated and authenticated successfully, but you should have money left over to purchase it legitimately if you wish depending on what you have atm. As for the other parts, the case, motherboard, and power supply depend on what you want first, though it's generally better to pick out a motherboard first, my order is generally

1) CPU (to get socket type)
2) Find motherboard (with corresponding socket type for CPU)
3) Find ram with matching speeds and compatible with motherboard
4) Find GPU
5) Find a Power Supply (mainly depends on how powerful a CPU and GPU picked)
6) Find a case (generally just look for cooling and size, though mid ATX is the way to go)
7) Gather any other peripherals (Hard drives, disc drives, OS's, I/O devices, monitors etc)

There are several tricks OEM (Original Equiment Manufacturer, tech lingo for a company assembling PCs) use to drive down the price of their desktops:

1. They install an OEM version of Windows. It can cost as little as 50% less then a boxed version of the OS. (What you're not told though, is that this OS can't be moved to a new machine and you'll have trouble upgrading whenever Windows 8,9, etc. come out). This can save them about $20-$50

2. They install cheap PSUs. This can save anothe $30-$50... and risks your whole system frying, which they can blame on your "dirty main line" (i.e. take it up with your electricity provider).

3. The buy bulk. This is the real killer and the one thing you can't compete with.

Things you can do:

a) Buy an OEM version of Windows 7 yourself.
b) Buy a quality PSU.
c) Buy used. I'm often amazed at what people throw out in the western world.
d) Reuse old parts. You don't have to buy a new case, often times you can use your old one. (...and buy a cheap case for your old PC and give it to your mom/nephew or use it as file/print server). Ditto for optical drive, or a quality PSU. Even the hard-disk.

Will you be requiring a monitor?

That's not actually true. I have a lot of experience in scrapping old machines and reusing their OEM keys on new machines.

Then I've been misinformed. I did hear something to the note, that if you uninstall your OS you can "transfer" it to a new machine.... however you might need help with activating the OS. What about upgrading the license?

I've never tried either, so I can't tell you myself.
Normally, on non OEM machines, I can just swap the drive to a different machine and install new drivers.
On OEM machines, I would actually have to reinstall the whole OS, and then activate the key online.

Thank you for all the replies.




I already have a monitor, a wireless keyboard+mouse, and some really good speakers. I'd prefer to not use the internal hardware of my old computer unless I have to.
Yes, gaming, as well as HD video editing.


I'm mostly interested in either the intel i5 2500k, or the intel i7 2600k


I'm really clueless about graphics cards, so I don't know what I should get. Considering that I'll have a really good processor, I don't want to be limited by a crappy graphics card. I just want whatever has the best price/performance ratio, Maybe you could suggest one?


I want at least 4 GB, but preferably more, since (I think) Sony vegas uses alot of ram.



Thank you, I looked at all the barebone kits with i5 and i7 processors. There was only 1 "cheap" i7 kit for $610: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=581640&CatId=4149 - Its got an 1.5 TB HD, a 600 watt PSU, and a $115-motherboard with a 4/5 star rating. I'll need to buy an additional graphics card

There was also a cheap i5 kit for $200 less: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1241992&CatId=4910. the HD is only 500 GB, the PSU is part of the box and only 450 watts, and it's got a $62-motherboard with a 3/5 star rating. again, I'll need to buy a graphics card, but I will have limited options because of the 450 watt PSU.

So, do you recommend either of these kits? or are there better ones that I just can't find?

The graphics card in the first post on the pre build is only 59.00 and it only requires the 450 watt. You can get a more powerful card, but yeah you need to upgrade the power supply on some. Which i don't play games on my pc and only use it for shop.. so i just use a intel hd integrated. The i7 one you would need another 4gb of ram or skate with a 6gb total. the second one would need a second hdd or a exhdd.. video take up major space in raw data. A i5 processor would be good with video if you don't go overboard or lack a little patience.. i recode video for a psp group and i have a i7 and i5.. i7 takes 4mins to code.. the i5 is more in the 8min range.. i7 is unlocked 3.40 and the i5 is 2.8ghz ish range. Kits are just simple to do things for first timers and those who hate to shop. You can always upgrade when you find better stuff.

Feel free to pick between AMD's 6950 and nvidia's 560 Ti, both are quite similar and approximately $250 range if I recall.



8 gig sets of ram are about $50-60 these days, so it's a good amount to have for most users.



Watch out for PSU's I'll go ahead and share what flaser said in previous posts about it, but I'm sure he's willing to help you more if you ask





A quick note, on newegg many people give 1 star ratings from DOA (damaged on arrival) items, which brings down ratings, but you can simply return it to the manufacturer and they'll replace it (though most of the time it isn't there fault) so try to focus on aspects written by other users and the board itself.

You chose a board with one PCI E x16 slot, and a couple smaller PCI expresses, this limits you quite a bit for either:

1) running multiple GPU's (crossfire, sli etc)
2) adding in peripherals (internal PCI cards for various things such as wireless adapters, sound cards, additional usb/firewire hubs etc)

If you do choose to get a different board however, keep in mind that you want to make sure that your socket type matches (which again, I feel like intel is a bit confusing for). There is a solution though, and that is there are quite a few CPU + motherboard combos on newegg that are worth searching for to help you in building your system

Alright, I did some research at microcenter.com, and I found a collection of parts that I'm considering

here's what I would be getting from Microcenter (in-store)

8 GB of Ram, a refurbished 1.5 TB Hard drive (7200rpm), a dvd burner, a case,
an i7 2600k processor
a radeon 6750 graphics card,
a cheap motherboard,
and a 600 W PSU

after tax and rebates, the total for the above is $700 from microcenter.

Do you recommend this build? I'm not really sure about the motherboard, do I need a more expensive one?

this is the only barebones kit with an i7 2600k, and it has no graphic card, only 4 gb ram, and a cheap PSU. also, I trust microcenter's return policy more than tigerdirect's.

1. The motherboard is a poor choice as it lack several modern features:

a) No USB 3.0 connectors.
b) No SATA 3.0 connectors.
c) Only 2 expansion slots.

In other words, the board is *really* limited. Don't be frugal on your MOBO, it dictates your upgrade options for years to come! Unless you're on a really tight budget, get the latest tech you can, since otherwise you'll have to pay more down the road when you *do* upgrade!

d) The PCI-E slot is version 2.0. Granted PCI-E 3.0 won't be exploited by GPUs for a while (1/2 a year), so this is minor, but I'll list it for completion's sake.

Here is a PCI-E 3.0 MOBOs for ~$110. I know, it's double of what you want to spend on a MOBO, but the nice thing about not buying rock bottom is that these mid-range MOBOs can last for *years*. (I have desktops that are in operation for more than a decade). You might scoff at this now, but having a backup PC can be a godsend. What good is a 4-5 year old machine? For gaming? Useless. For browsing the net? Actually adequate. For getting work done when you gotta have a desktop? Priceless.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130621

...or here's a pair of PCI-E 2.0 MOBOs, but with both USB 3.0 & SATA 3.0:

ASRock H61M/U3S3 - $70
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157236

MSI PH61A-P35 (B3) - $80
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130609

ASRock H67M (B3) - $80, this one also supports RAID
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157233

2. If you're only going to use a single GPU, a 600W PSU is waste. 450W is enough for anything. You can get this PSU for $45 (almost half of what a 600W costs, $35 after sending a mail-in rebate card):
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Corsair-CX430-V2-Power-Supply-Review/1284
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139026&Tpk=CX430

Microcenter sells the 430W PSU you recommended, but they also sell this 500W PSU for $10 less. I'm assuming I should get the 500w PSU? I don't see any difference other than the wattage.

for my motherboard, I think I'll get this one, microcenter sells it for only $90.

Microcenter only sells 2 motherboards that have usb 3.0 for under 90$:this one, and this one.

are any of these mobos OK, or should I look for others?

I'm also building a new computer and picked up a 2600k + z68 mobo for $300 at my local Microcenter :D

Do you plan on overclocking? Those H61 motherboards will not allow you to make use of those unlocked multipliers. Get at least a P67 or Z68 if you want greater range and capability. If you dont plan on OC'ing, you might want to settle for a cheaper non-K cpu.

What games do you plan on playing? If you can settle for the i5 instead of the i7, you could use the extra towards the GPU. That 6750 will severely hinder your 3D gameplay. Especially if you want to future-proof your rig, a 6870 or gtx560 for around $150 after MIR would suffice most games. There was a recent deal at Tigerdirect for a 4870x2 for 109.99 shipped.

Those Corsair power supplies will work perfectly for your build. If you upgrade your GPU, go for the 500watt at least. If you plan on getting a better gpu or maybe SLi/Xfire in the future, you may want to get an even better one. Newegg just had a 1000w Rosewill 80plus bronze for 60$ shipped. A lot of people don't emphasize this enough, but your PSU is the heart of your whole system. If it dies, under-powers or under-performs, it could damage your system and ruin some of those high-end parts. More continuous power means less stress at load and cooler temps therefore keeping your PSU viable for the whole lifespan of your build.

Black Friday and Cyber Monday are in a few weeks. Can you wait to get some of your components then? I'm holding off my GPU until then and maybe I'll get lucky. You may want to bookmark Techbargains to help aggregate all those yummy computer deals. Good luck!

For fuck's sake boy, read the damn thread before you post advice!
You've just reiterated all the bad things I tell people *NOT* to do!

A 1000W PSU? Are you gonna vacuum your room with your PC? What the fuck do you need a 1kW power-source for? ...have you actually checked whether that "bargain" PSU can even deliver its rating? Things are, good 1kW PSUs costs $200-$300 and are used in data-servers crammed full of hard-disks.

The 6750 is a *perfectly* good card. I doubt there's going to be a game released within a year that will sweat it... especially since game development is "console locked", i.e. they have to develop for 5 year old hardware.

There's no such thing as "future proofing". That's bullshit that marketing departments tell you. You're better off just buying another card in a year.

---

The problem with PSUs is, even when you buy the same brand, different models can have wildly different internals. This is because most brands in computing actually don't manufacture their own products, but either subcontract the manufacturing or just buy the product of an OEM (in thie context OEM means a company that focuses on manufacturing stuff, not marketing and sales) and re-sell it with their logo and packaging.

...hence why I can't say anything concrete about the 500W model, since I haven't seen a proper test of it.

Reviewing most computing parts is easy, since you just assmble it, stress test it with some programs, maybe run some monitoring program in the back and you've got an article that contains the essentials.

99% of PSU reviews (*especially* by computer magazines) by contrast are bull, since the prime function of a PSU is not a computing, but an electrical one. You gotta have a load tester to check whether it holds its voltage, a "sweat box" (typically your case is a lot warmer than the 25 degrees Celsius) to check how it does in a heated environment, an oscilloscope to check for ripples in voltage... all expensive testing equipment the PC magazines can't be arsed to pay for.



This is an acceptable part, as it supports both SATA 3.0 and USB 3.0.



This one doesn't support SATA 3.0 (6 GB/s data transfer rate), so I don't recommend it. This is important for SSDs, as PCI-E SSDs can cost 4x more than those with SATA connectors.




This one doesn't support SATA 3.0 either.

I ain't a boy so calm the fuck down. No, I did not recommend using a 1kw psu. I was merely giving an example that Lelouch could find a good deal on a higher wattage psu. If he were to SLi or Xfire in the future, 500 watt would not suffice.

That's why I asked him what games he planned on playing. Any self-respecting gamer knows you can't utilize DX11 or DX10 with an entry-mid level card like 6750 unless you like to play on low resolution. He would be turning AA off, AF to 0, textures to low etc. to get around 40-50 fps on 1680x1050. So please, don't bullshit him into thinking he'll be good with 3D gaming now and in the near future with a 6750.

Seriously? You're taking "future-proofing" up the ass. Lots of people use that term on PC forums for budget minded people who don't have intentions on upgrading for a LONG time. He needs to know that his GPU will bottleneck most of his gaming performance. So stop acting like an ass, I was merely giving my input.