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Show me your Gunpla
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Antw0n
Remember me?
Sorry for this plug.
I've started a Gundam discussion group on Skype, if anyone wants to join.
All fans, including Gunpla builders are welcome. We talk about it all.
Also we play a hilarious game using the Gundam Wiki and the Random page button.
Anyone can join, just pm me or add me on Skype! i_am_antw0n
I've started a Gundam discussion group on Skype, if anyone wants to join.
All fans, including Gunpla builders are welcome. We talk about it all.
Also we play a hilarious game using the Gundam Wiki and the Random page button.
Anyone can join, just pm me or add me on Skype! i_am_antw0n
0
I wonder what goes through the minds of the modelers who did these.
http://www.gunjap.net/site/?p=79144
http://gundamguy.blogspot.com/2012/07/1144-gerbera-tetra-ver-uc0096-custom.html
http://www.gunjap.net/site/?p=79135
Pretty cool stuff.
http://www.gunjap.net/site/?p=79144
http://gundamguy.blogspot.com/2012/07/1144-gerbera-tetra-ver-uc0096-custom.html
http://www.gunjap.net/site/?p=79135
Pretty cool stuff.
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winter55 wrote...
the glory star wrote...
winter55 wrote...
159.75gonna get one soon.
Don't forget to get a can of Bosny primer grey, you can get that cheap in a hardware outside the mall ^_^ Grab some various grits of sandpaper as well, and sand the parts nicely before priming.
TOA and Pylox are easier to use than Bosny though they are more expensive.
And yeah, do that test bed well, so that you won't regret your job on the FA Unicorn, coz that guy ain't exactly cheap.
've started sanding when I got my sinanju bazooka, so it won't be an issue. And I think I'll go for a MR hobby or tamiya surface primer, too scared to try bosny primer. and I have a FG blue frame to test out so it'll be fine.
If you're scared of using bosny primer, you should be more scared of using bosny paints (man bosny paints are thick as heck really, but their primer does its job well) XD Bosny primer is not corrosive otherwise it won't be even called a primer and defeat its own purpose. And if they are harmful, all of my painted kits would have fallen apart rignt about now, as well as for those pro modelers who actually suggested for me to use the thing. Also, just a bit of a warning, don't be surprised if you use primers and they produce a slightly grainy finish, according to experience and to everything I read even tamiya and mr hobby primers and surfacers still produce a slightly grainy surface, however, once you paint it over the finish would be smooth and fine depending on the way on how you actually sprayed on the part.
Anyways, it's up to you and I wish you good luck.
However, I use Mr.hobby flat coat for a final finish, because it produces a very fine finish, as long as you spray it right.
damn, lots of edits Still not used to the ipad T.T
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the glory star wrote...
winter55 wrote...
the glory star wrote...
winter55 wrote...
159.75gonna get one soon.
Don't forget to get a can of Bosny primer grey, you can get that cheap in a hardware outside the mall ^_^ Grab some various grits of sandpaper as well, and sand the parts nicely before priming.
TOA and Pylox are easier to use than Bosny though they are more expensive.
And yeah, do that test bed well, so that you won't regret your job on the FA Unicorn, coz that guy ain't exactly cheap.
've started sanding when I got my sinanju bazooka, so it won't be an issue. And I think I'll go for a MR hobby or tamiya surface primer, too scared to try bosny primer. and I have a FG blue frame to test out so it'll be fine.
If you're scared of using bosny primer, you should be more scared of using bosny paints (man bosny paints are thick as heck really, but their primer does its job well) XD Bosny primer is not corrosive otherwise it won't be even called a primer and defeat its own purpose. And if they are harmful, all of my painted kits would have fallen apart rignt about now, as well as for those pro modelers who actually suggested for me to use the thing. Also, just a bit of a warning, don't be surprised if you use primers and they produce a slightly grainy finish, according to experience and to everything I read even tamiya and mr hobby primers and surfacers still produce a slightly grainy surface, however, once you paint it over the finish would be smooth and fine depending on the way on how you actually sprayed on the part.
Anyways, it's up to you and I wish you good luck.
However, I use Mr.hobby flat coat for a final finish, because it produces a very fine finish, as long as you spray it right.
damn, lots of edits Still not used to the ipad T.T
So I'm wondering, for the panel lining and detailing part, gloss coat right? then for the finishing touches, flat coat. Right? Also, if I apply a gloss coat layer first, dirt won't penetrate up to the paint right?
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Look at this beauty.
http://www.gunjap.net/site/?p=79565
And more of the beautiful Louis Vuitton Astray.
This time with a new weapon.
http://gundamguy.blogspot.com/2012/07/pg-160-gundam-astray-louis-vuiton-ver.html
http://www.gunjap.net/site/?p=79565
And more of the beautiful Louis Vuitton Astray.
This time with a new weapon.
http://gundamguy.blogspot.com/2012/07/pg-160-gundam-astray-louis-vuiton-ver.html
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So I just saw the MG Banshee gundam at my local comic store about a week ago. I stood there staring at it for a good 30 mins before Jason, the store owner, came up to me asking me I wanted to buy it. I'll post images of it when I can. Right now I'm just cutting off the studs and using sandpaper to smooth the parts out.
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winter55 wrote...
the glory star wrote...
winter55 wrote...
the glory star wrote...
winter55 wrote...
159.75gonna get one soon.
Don't forget to get a can of Bosny primer grey, you can get that cheap in a hardware outside the mall ^_^ Grab some various grits of sandpaper as well, and sand the parts nicely before priming.
TOA and Pylox are easier to use than Bosny though they are more expensive.
And yeah, do that test bed well, so that you won't regret your job on the FA Unicorn, coz that guy ain't exactly cheap.
've started sanding when I got my sinanju bazooka, so it won't be an issue. And I think I'll go for a MR hobby or tamiya surface primer, too scared to try bosny primer. and I have a FG blue frame to test out so it'll be fine.
If you're scared of using bosny primer, you should be more scared of using bosny paints (man bosny paints are thick as heck really, but their primer does its job well) XD Bosny primer is not corrosive otherwise it won't be even called a primer and defeat its own purpose. And if they are harmful, all of my painted kits would have fallen apart rignt about now, as well as for those pro modelers who actually suggested for me to use the thing. Also, just a bit of a warning, don't be surprised if you use primers and they produce a slightly grainy finish, according to experience and to everything I read even tamiya and mr hobby primers and surfacers still produce a slightly grainy surface, however, once you paint it over the finish would be smooth and fine depending on the way on how you actually sprayed on the part.
Anyways, it's up to you and I wish you good luck.
However, I use Mr.hobby flat coat for a final finish, because it produces a very fine finish, as long as you spray it right.
damn, lots of edits Still not used to the ipad T.T
So I'm wondering, for the panel lining and detailing part, gloss coat right? then for the finishing touches, flat coat. Right? Also, if I apply a gloss coat layer first, dirt won't penetrate up to the paint right?
Yeah, basically that's the gist of it, in my case after I apply panel lines and decals I add another gloss coat before applying the final flat coat, of course flat is not the only finish that you can work with, you can settle for gloss or semi-gloss as well . Gloss coats offer a better protection against dirt and scratches in my experience, because you can just wipe off the dirt that might cling to the surface.
And if may I suggest,use Pledge Wipe and Shine floor polish for your gloss coat. You will need to brush it onto the parts, but it's self leveling so that's why it's very easy to use, and it's very cheap to boot.
Here's a tutorial for you:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rwTvwxsxHX0
And, on a side note since classes were suspended today, I took a pic of what I was able to do with the SD Ex-S before school started. Almost all of the parts are still in gloss except for the head, torso and shoulders. I'm really gonna buff up the puny boosters that came with the kit, and replace them with after market boosters, as well as add a Radome Disk for the beam smartgun, which the kit didn't include T_T
Spoiler:
0
the glory star wrote...
winter55 wrote...
the glory star wrote...
winter55 wrote...
the glory star wrote...
winter55 wrote...
159.75gonna get one soon.
Don't forget to get a can of Bosny primer grey, you can get that cheap in a hardware outside the mall ^_^ Grab some various grits of sandpaper as well, and sand the parts nicely before priming.
TOA and Pylox are easier to use than Bosny though they are more expensive.
And yeah, do that test bed well, so that you won't regret your job on the FA Unicorn, coz that guy ain't exactly cheap.
've started sanding when I got my sinanju bazooka, so it won't be an issue. And I think I'll go for a MR hobby or tamiya surface primer, too scared to try bosny primer. and I have a FG blue frame to test out so it'll be fine.
If you're scared of using bosny primer, you should be more scared of using bosny paints (man bosny paints are thick as heck really, but their primer does its job well) XD Bosny primer is not corrosive otherwise it won't be even called a primer and defeat its own purpose. And if they are harmful, all of my painted kits would have fallen apart rignt about now, as well as for those pro modelers who actually suggested for me to use the thing. Also, just a bit of a warning, don't be surprised if you use primers and they produce a slightly grainy finish, according to experience and to everything I read even tamiya and mr hobby primers and surfacers still produce a slightly grainy surface, however, once you paint it over the finish would be smooth and fine depending on the way on how you actually sprayed on the part.
Anyways, it's up to you and I wish you good luck.
However, I use Mr.hobby flat coat for a final finish, because it produces a very fine finish, as long as you spray it right.
damn, lots of edits Still not used to the ipad T.T
So I'm wondering, for the panel lining and detailing part, gloss coat right? then for the finishing touches, flat coat. Right? Also, if I apply a gloss coat layer first, dirt won't penetrate up to the paint right?
Yeah, basically that's the gist of it, in my case after I apply panel lines and decals I add another gloss coat before applying the final flat coat, of course flat is not the only finish that you can work with, you can settle for gloss or semi-gloss as well . Gloss coats offer a better protection against dirt and scratches in my experience, because you can just wipe off the dirt that might cling to the surface.
And if may I suggest,use Pledge Wipe and Shine floor polish for your gloss coat. You will need to brush it onto the parts, but it's self leveling so that's why it's very easy to use, and it's very cheap to boot.
Here's a tutorial for you:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rwTvwxsxHX0
And, on a side note since classes were suspended today, I took a pic of what I was able to do with the SD Ex-S before school started. Almost all of the parts are still in gloss except for the head, torso and shoulders. I'm really gonna buff up the puny boosters that came with the kit, and replace them with after market boosters, as well as add a Radome Disk for the beam smartgun, which the kit didn't include T_T
Spoiler:
where can I get that polish? does it have the same effect as the spray?
0
You can get them at department stores easily, and at ACE too. Yes, it does have the same effect as spray, even better if I say so myself.
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the glory star wrote...
You can get them at department stores easily, and at ACE too. Yes, it does have the same effect as spray, even better if I say so myself.but FAU has like, zomgsomany parts to work on.. I think I'll spray instead
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Hey guys, PG Hyaku Shiki customized from a PG MK-II.
http://gundamguy.blogspot.com/2012/07/160-msn-00100-hyaku-shiki-neograde.html
http://gundamguy.blogspot.com/2012/07/160-msn-00100-hyaku-shiki-neograde.html
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after looking at this picture, someone on facebook said this :
someone wrote...
You're kidding, right? If you put funnels on the Unicorn, mix it up with Hi-Nu a bit and put Amuro in the cockpit. Everyone's screwed, give up Zeon, it's over.
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AMURO -(Activates NTD) FUNNEL's GO! (Brain splatter) Lol
too much psycommu to handle. ^_^v
well, this was unexpected. A cosplay event in SM north in 29.
and they even built big ass unicorn gundam to boot
winter55,glory star ,you going?
still not sure on going.
too much psycommu to handle. ^_^v
well, this was unexpected. A cosplay event in SM north in 29.
and they even built big ass unicorn gundam to boot
winter55,glory star ,you going?
still not sure on going.
Spoiler:
0
Guys....you'll never believe this but......
There is a 1/35 Megasized EX-S that was scratch built by 3 guys.
http://www.gunjap.net/site/?p=81696
There is a 1/35 Megasized EX-S that was scratch built by 3 guys.
http://www.gunjap.net/site/?p=81696
Spoiler:
0
Was supposed to finish priming my kit today, but, it rained very hard, so i was unable to do so.
oh well, will try to prime it tomorrow, and paint it on the other day.
Hong-kong GWBC. Eday = RAGEQUIT.
http://waylander9.blogspot.com/2012/07/gbwc-2012-hongkong.html
@satsugai - if i remember correctly, that 1/35 Exs is a Resin kit from G-systems.
oh well, will try to prime it tomorrow, and paint it on the other day.
Spoiler:
Hong-kong GWBC. Eday = RAGEQUIT.
http://waylander9.blogspot.com/2012/07/gbwc-2012-hongkong.html
@satsugai - if i remember correctly, that 1/35 Exs is a Resin kit from G-systems.
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bobing wrote...
AMURO -(Activates NTD) FUNNEL's GO! (Brain splatter) Loltoo much psycommu to handle. ^_^v
well, this was unexpected. A cosplay event in SM north in 29.
and they even built big ass unicorn gundam to boot
winter55,glory star ,you going?
still not sure on going.
Spoiler:
hmmm... Dunno. Even tho I'm less than 30 mins away
0
anyone from the Philippines joining GWBC?
Categories and rules
But then again,this event, requires receipt from the kits only bought at Toy's R us. what where they thinking?, this GWBC, will seem like a disaster if not a failure.
planning to enter ,but the rules seem stupid and i will wait for another year.
----
Will post venue on another time
Categories and rules
Spoiler:
But then again,this event, requires receipt from the kits only bought at Toy's R us. what where they thinking?, this GWBC, will seem like a disaster if not a failure.
planning to enter ,but the rules seem stupid and i will wait for another year.
----
Will post venue on another time
0
Wow, that's bad news. There's no Toy's R Us here at my place. I need to tell the guys at a gathering today since we're going to discuss about GWBC.
0
bobing wrote...
anyone from the Philippines joining GWBC?Categories and rules
Spoiler:
But then again,this event, requires receipt from the kits only bought at Toy's R us. what where they thinking?, this GWBC, will seem like a disaster if not a failure.
planning to enter ,but the rules seem stupid and i will wait for another year.
----
Will post venue on another time
really? gonna ask them later tonight. damn Gundam Philippines sure sucks if the require contestants to buy a gunpla from the most expensive dealer of gunpla.
