Flaser Posts
Flaser
OCD Hentai Collector
Unfortunately it could be that the rest of your files are unrecoverable.
Any usage of the partition after their loss increases the chance some are lost beyond all hope of recovery. (If they were overwritten by other data - and not just their MFT entry... well, you'd need a forensics lab to do anything in that case).
Any usage of the partition after their loss increases the chance some are lost beyond all hope of recovery. (If they were overwritten by other data - and not just their MFT entry... well, you'd need a forensics lab to do anything in that case).
Flaser
OCD Hentai Collector
UPDATED 2010.10.23: No new, summaries, but I *did* add info on how to setup the dicebot, and added some new characters and retired inactive ones.
Schedule
Games are played every Saturday 14:00 CST / 20:00 GMT.
IRC
The games are played using IRC. It's recommended you get an IRC (compatible) client to play. Such as: Pidgin, mIRC.
The server we use is: irc.sorcery.net
(In mIRC type: "/server irc.sorcery.net").
(In pidgin add a connection selecting the type "IRC" and enter "irc.sorcery.net" as the server).
The room we use is: #FallofUnity
(In either mIRC or Pidgin, once you're conneted to the server type "/join #FallofUnity").
If you really can't be bothered (or you're playing on someone's else's machine) you can use this link to connect from a browser:
irc://irc.sorcery.net/#FallOfUnity.
Setting up a Dicebot
This is help for GMs to get the "Bones" dicebot up and running.
Usefull Links
http://www.pathguy.com/cg35.htm - A D&D 3.5 Character Generator, good to quickly make a character.
http://www.myth-weavers.com/sheetindex.php - A place to store and quickly update on-line character sheets.
http://www.crystalkeep.com/d20 - Lists of feats, skills, classes etc. Quick information at your fingertips. Pdf-files.
http://realmshelps.dandello.net/ - List of stuff. More up to date than Crystal Keep. Click for complete listing.
http://www.wizards.com/default.asp?x=d20/article/srd35 - Official .rtf-files.
Rules Of the Game - Articles from Dragon Magazine that explain some of the vagaries of D&D 3.5 rules.
Mythology
History
Characters Already in Play
Characters' Followers, Minions
Characters' Mounts, Familiars, Animal Companions
Characters No Longer in Play:
Characters' Followers, Minions No Longer in Play
Characters' Mounts, Familiars, Animal Companions No Longer in Play
NPCs
I went over the rules to clear up something about combat, namely, how many attacks does a character get and how these attacks relate to movement:
Normal Attacks
Feat Granted Attacks
Attacks of Opportunity
An example
[size=20]General Information[/h]
Schedule
Games are played every Saturday 14:00 CST / 20:00 GMT.
IRC
The games are played using IRC. It's recommended you get an IRC (compatible) client to play. Such as: Pidgin, mIRC.
The server we use is: irc.sorcery.net
(In mIRC type: "/server irc.sorcery.net").
(In pidgin add a connection selecting the type "IRC" and enter "irc.sorcery.net" as the server).
The room we use is: #FallofUnity
(In either mIRC or Pidgin, once you're conneted to the server type "/join #FallofUnity").
If you really can't be bothered (or you're playing on someone's else's machine) you can use this link to connect from a browser:
irc://irc.sorcery.net/#FallOfUnity.
Setting up a Dicebot
This is help for GMs to get the "Bones" dicebot up and running.
Spoiler:
Usefull Links
http://www.pathguy.com/cg35.htm - A D&D 3.5 Character Generator, good to quickly make a character.
http://www.myth-weavers.com/sheetindex.php - A place to store and quickly update on-line character sheets.
http://www.crystalkeep.com/d20 - Lists of feats, skills, classes etc. Quick information at your fingertips. Pdf-files.
http://realmshelps.dandello.net/ - List of stuff. More up to date than Crystal Keep. Click for complete listing.
http://www.wizards.com/default.asp?x=d20/article/srd35 - Official .rtf-files.
Rules Of the Game - Articles from Dragon Magazine that explain some of the vagaries of D&D 3.5 rules.
[size=20]Setting[/h]
Mythology
Spoiler:
History
Spoiler:
[size=20]Game Sessions Summaries[/h]
Spoiler:
[size=20]Character Sheets[/h]
Characters Already in Play
Spoiler:
Characters' Followers, Minions
Spoiler:
Characters' Mounts, Familiars, Animal Companions
Spoiler:
Characters No Longer in Play:
Spoiler:
Characters' Followers, Minions No Longer in Play
Spoiler:
Characters' Mounts, Familiars, Animal Companions No Longer in Play
Spoiler:
NPCs
Spoiler:
[size=20]Aggregated Combat Rules - Number of Attacks[/h]
I went over the rules to clear up something about combat, namely, how many attacks does a character get and how these attacks relate to movement:
Normal Attacks
Spoiler:
Feat Granted Attacks
Spoiler:
Attacks of Opportunity
Spoiler:
[size=20]Calculating an "Attack Chain" for Full Attack[/h]
Spoiler:
An example
Spoiler:
Flaser
OCD Hentai Collector
What time should we start? Usual time (14:00 CST/20:00 GMT) or earlier like last week (11:00 CST/17:00 GMT)?
Flaser
OCD Hentai Collector
spectre257 wrote...
Flaser wrote...
IMHO you'll *have* to buy another motherboard...You current one simply *can't* be upgraded worth anything. (It can't accept even a mildly strong CPU has *no slot* for a graphic card).
However you don't have to buy it new. That's why I recommended getting a used one. Preferably LGA 775... though in a pinch even a Socket 478 one will do (though the later will only support AGP cards... so I'd rather go and get an LGA 775 one).
Since a motherboard is what you plug everything else into, it's the other way around. You have to buy a motherboard that still has IDA (AKA PATA) support, so you can plug your old hard drive and DVD drive into it. Only LGA 775 models tend to have that though nowadays.
So here's what a "quasi-new" system will need. The prices are for brand new stuff, not used, so you could fine a lot better bargains:
-A motherboard (LGA 775) ~100-150$
-A CPU (a budget model, I recommend the E5000 series) ~100$
-2 Gbyte DDR2 RAM. ~50$
-A cheap videocard. ~100$
So altogether about 300-400$.
Tbh I wouldn't go the 775 route it's essentially a dead socket, I know they have life in them but you're better off getting a current gen socket so that you have upgrade options.
For a budget build go AMD route.
That's hogwash that modern mobos don't support IDE my current gen 880GA-UD3H supports IDE and has provisions for a floppy disc drive.
Even high end boards tend to have IDE support, only the very stripped down boards sometimes omit IDE or OEM boards that are made to spec.
Tegumi wrote...
And, you still haven't answered as to how you know this person has a 400W PSU?
Judging by the specs that OP's Dell box has I'd hazard a guess of 300-400watts.
You're right: the LGA 775 is dead. (...or seriously outdated).
However it's cheap and can be got for bargain prices as retailers are trying to get rid of their stock.
Flaser
OCD Hentai Collector
Bumping this after a whole month, let's see if someone can ID something this time around. I've removed some earlier entries as I've managed to identify them and added a new one from Kizlan.
Flaser
OCD Hentai Collector
Tegumi wrote...
Where did your knowledge of this 400W PSU come from? As far as I know, large name computer manufacturers put in a power supply to -just- cover the needs of the computer. Which, incidentally, also plays against your call for a quality PSU, because they are often not.Check your knowledge, it's not in line with reality.
Large, brand name PSU-s give the exact voltage that's in the specs when under the load written on the box or less. When they're not under their nominal load or close to it, what suffers is efficiency, so you'll consume more power than what you strictly need. This is why it's *recommended* to select a PSU that gives out *just enough* juice.
No-name, cheap PSUs can't hold the load and therefore their voltage drops (the better outcome!) which means you'll experience various failures. If the voltage rises... well you can imagine the effects.
...hence to get the same output from a no-name brand, you need to buy one with ridiculous claims of 800W or similar just to get the same thing, you'd get in a decent (well built, and not outrageously advertised) PSU.
For further details read this:
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/410
...and this is one of the few guys, who writes *good* PSU reviews:
http://www.jonnyguru.com/index.php
Flaser
OCD Hentai Collector
Tegumi wrote...
May I remind all of the dangers of an inexperienced hand modifying a computer for the first time? It's much better to learn the what-goes-where by building a computer from the ground up. Additionally, Flaser is *essentially* telling you to buy a new computer, sans case, because your PSU will likely provide insufficient power for your new parts.Um...why would the PSU be insufficient?
400W tends to be enough for *anything*, if you bought a brand with a lick of worthiness. If you bought a chieftek, an FPS, a Seasonic, then you're fine.
Here's where the whole "wattage" scare is coming from: Manufacturers have to assure that their stuff works even with the worst stuff on the market. For very cheap (nonmae) PSUs a great number of them can only do their nominal output on paper. Under a load their output greatly drops so you "600W über-powerful" PSU is only good for 300W.
If you bought a good PSU, from a reliable manufacturer even a 300W would be enough for his system.
Flaser
OCD Hentai Collector
@justin - you should use recuva, and do a deep scan this time. The MFT is the Main File Table. Formating the drive erased this too.
You'll have to do a deep scan with some recovery software. Why are you using the network version of the R-soft one though? That's for accessing drives *through* a network or recovering stuff from a network drive.
@Tegumi - yes and no.
I know stuff published by these guys, they're a world wide data recovery firm (one of the very few firms in my country who do anything world class).
http://www.kuert-group.com/
Any further operation the medium you're trying to recover data from lowers the chance of recovery. If it was only a *single* format, then yes you might recover stuff. However something must've already "damaged" (in a logical sense) the data on the drive to put it in the unallocated state...
...a "reallocation", then a "reformat" on top of this could only hurt.
That's why maddog's assertions of expertise is so infuriating for me.
1) He has no idea, what the initial problem was.
2) He assumes, that the effect of the problem - unallocated disc space - is all there is to know.
3) He goes on to fix the 2nd problem, without even giving *any* thought, that to regain the data, one has to overcome the initial problem.
I have no idea what the 1st problem was... probably we might never do, as the evidence might have been destroyed by excessive tempering. Maybe I couldn't find out either, as I'm not a data recovery expert.
However what I do know is this:
1) "Home data recovery" is only possible in case of a software related loss.
2) You don't do *ANYTHING* to the original medium until you've recovered a data.
3) Only after the data has been recovered from the medium can you do any attempt to restore it to working condition.
4) Good data recovery software operates on this principle. Bad ones immediately try to fix the problem and offer "miracles". Those *might* work... some of the time. Other times they help make the data unrecoverable.
You'll have to do a deep scan with some recovery software. Why are you using the network version of the R-soft one though? That's for accessing drives *through* a network or recovering stuff from a network drive.
@Tegumi - yes and no.
I know stuff published by these guys, they're a world wide data recovery firm (one of the very few firms in my country who do anything world class).
http://www.kuert-group.com/
Any further operation the medium you're trying to recover data from lowers the chance of recovery. If it was only a *single* format, then yes you might recover stuff. However something must've already "damaged" (in a logical sense) the data on the drive to put it in the unallocated state...
...a "reallocation", then a "reformat" on top of this could only hurt.
That's why maddog's assertions of expertise is so infuriating for me.
1) He has no idea, what the initial problem was.
2) He assumes, that the effect of the problem - unallocated disc space - is all there is to know.
3) He goes on to fix the 2nd problem, without even giving *any* thought, that to regain the data, one has to overcome the initial problem.
I have no idea what the 1st problem was... probably we might never do, as the evidence might have been destroyed by excessive tempering. Maybe I couldn't find out either, as I'm not a data recovery expert.
However what I do know is this:
1) "Home data recovery" is only possible in case of a software related loss.
2) You don't do *ANYTHING* to the original medium until you've recovered a data.
3) Only after the data has been recovered from the medium can you do any attempt to restore it to working condition.
4) Good data recovery software operates on this principle. Bad ones immediately try to fix the problem and offer "miracles". Those *might* work... some of the time. Other times they help make the data unrecoverable.
Flaser
OCD Hentai Collector
Some of it I learned (I'm a sysop), others thing you just let soak in through your skin and absorb through osmosis. I've been into this stuff for 20 years now. Simply put I was there when the tech came out and had time to get used to it.
Wikipedia is your friend, there are dozens of articles on it, with good advice... though they're a bit tech jargon heavy, they also try to get the gist through.
Wikipedia is your friend, there are dozens of articles on it, with good advice... though they're a bit tech jargon heavy, they also try to get the gist through.
Flaser
OCD Hentai Collector
maddog53 wrote...
Flaser wrote...
Because neither or you are giving sane advice!DON'T FORMAT THE DRIVE!!!
In fact, DON'T DO *ANYTHING* UNTIL YOU HAVE ANSWERED THIS QUESTION:
How important is the data on the drive?
Is it worth hundreds of dollars... maybe thousands? If yes, stop *all* activity and consult a data recovery firm. You'll shell out at least hundreds of dollars and maybe thousands, but they can recover data from very badly mangled hard-drives (even ones literally fried by fire). Any further "repair attempts" may further mangle the data and make your bill ever higher.
If not, but the data is still important enough, then *buy* (...or ...ahem "appropriate") a good data-recovery software.
Here's the no.1 rule of data recovery: You *DON'T CHANGE ANYTHING* on the medium you're recovering from, because any change could lead to corruption. Any other advise you may get is amateurish.
Good data recovery is about recovering your data first and foremost, not restoring the medium to working order.
Things I've used in the past:
http://www.diskinternals.com/ntfs-recovery/
http://www.data-recovery-software.net/
http://www.easeus.com/datarecoverywizard/free-data-recovery-software.htm
...and
http://www.piriform.com/recuva
...a free software has already been recommended. RTFM! We can't walk you through these step by step as each software is different.
...and you may browse here, for more free software to tyr:
http://www.thefreecountry.com/utilities/datarecovery.shtml
The problem wasn't that the data disappeared, but that the drive became unallocated. You have to reinitialize the disk for any software to be able to see it. This also involves formating the drive. Also note that I told him to use a quick format and not a full format. The quick format will not delete any data whereas the full format will. Of course once those steps have been taken you should use good quality data recovery software.
You have no idea what you're talking about and arrogantly assume that you can diagnose a system without even having seen it or any test result about it.
Formating destroys the file allocation tables, so it will in-effect, WIPE OUT THE EASIEST METHOD TO RECOVER HIS FILES!
Congratulations, you made it even harder to recover his data! It's still there, but without at least a single remaining FAT table it will be a lot harder to recover them.
Remapping a drive is not the same as formatting it!
...the MBR, or the other partion data could have been corrupted or destroyed by a rootkit or the carelessness of the user with some program. You still don't format the drive! There is more than a single FAT table on the partition, and you might recover it even with as little as the MS recovery console.
Flaser
OCD Hentai Collector
I'm male and it depends on the game, but recently I tend to pick female as I'd rather admire the shapely curves of a girl from behind than stare at the bum of a guy.
Flaser
OCD Hentai Collector
IMHO you'll *have* to buy another motherboard...
You current one simply *can't* be upgraded worth anything. (It can't accept even a mildly strong CPU has *no slot* for a graphic card).
However you don't have to buy it new. That's why I recommended getting a used one. Preferably LGA 775... though in a pinch even a Socket 478 one will do (though the later will only support AGP cards... so I'd rather go and get an LGA 775 one).
Since a motherboard is what you plug everything else into, it's the other way around. You have to buy a motherboard that still has IDA (AKA PATA) support, so you can plug your old hard drive and DVD drive into it. Only LGA 775 models tend to have that though nowadays.
So here's what a "quasi-new" system will need. The prices are for brand new stuff, not used, so you could fine a lot better bargains:
-A motherboard (LGA 775) ~100-150$
-A CPU (a budget model, I recommend the E5000 series) ~100$
-2 Gbyte DDR2 RAM. ~50$
-A cheap videocard. ~100$
So altogether about 300-400$.
You current one simply *can't* be upgraded worth anything. (It can't accept even a mildly strong CPU has *no slot* for a graphic card).
However you don't have to buy it new. That's why I recommended getting a used one. Preferably LGA 775... though in a pinch even a Socket 478 one will do (though the later will only support AGP cards... so I'd rather go and get an LGA 775 one).
Since a motherboard is what you plug everything else into, it's the other way around. You have to buy a motherboard that still has IDA (AKA PATA) support, so you can plug your old hard drive and DVD drive into it. Only LGA 775 models tend to have that though nowadays.
So here's what a "quasi-new" system will need. The prices are for brand new stuff, not used, so you could fine a lot better bargains:
-A motherboard (LGA 775) ~100-150$
-A CPU (a budget model, I recommend the E5000 series) ~100$
-2 Gbyte DDR2 RAM. ~50$
-A cheap videocard. ~100$
So altogether about 300-400$.
Flaser
OCD Hentai Collector
Try one of the programs we suggested. They'll take a lot of time (as they do a bit-by-bit sweep of the hard drive's surface), but they might still recover some files for you.
...and make sure you have another partition or hard drive to save the restored files to.
...and make sure you have another partition or hard drive to save the restored files to.
Flaser
OCD Hentai Collector
For video playback CPU power is more important than your graphic card*. To know what CPU you can get, you need to know what your motherboard is. Getting this data is a bit tricky, (without opening up your case), but can be done.
(Unfortunatelly I don't have an English install of Windows XP on hand, so I can't tell you exactly what to click on... I'm trying to translate the most likely titles)
Start --> Help and Support --> Use Tools to view your computer information and diagnose problems --> My Computer Information --> View general system information about this computer
Alternatively you could do this Start --> Run, enter "msinfo32".
Here you'll need System Summary --> OEM System Information (manufacturer, model, and type). The model is what you need to search for on the internet, this indicates you motherboard.
Once you have the correct model, you can check what CPUs it can accept:
http://www.cpu-upgrade.com/
http://www.motherboard.cz/
Since you wrote, you have a Northwood Celeron processor, I assume you have an Intel Socket 478 motherboard. Though, nowadays quite outdated, you can get a full blown Pentium 4 processor a lot cheaper than a new system and they *can* do HD playback. Even a run of the mill 2.5 GHz Northwood *Pentium 4* (instead Celeron) can do it, though only 720p (... and probably only with CoreAVC). If your motherboard can support a Prescott processor I'd get one of those instead as they were a lot more powerful. Beware! You might have to update your BIOS for the motherboard to support newer CPUs and beside the socket, you also have to look out not only for FSB support but support for the CPU family itself, as I've seen Socket 478 motherboards that only supported Willamette and Northwood processors, not Prescott.
You can only upgrade your videocard if your motherboard has an AGP (or PCI-E? I've yet to see a Socket 478 system with PCI-E) slot for it.
In that case, the best videocard you might get are among the the first HD line from ATI. These are the strongest AGP videocards on the market as all the newer (and better) models are PCI-Express only.
https://secure.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/wiki/Radeon_R600
...though recently there were some even newer models for the AGP slot. IMHO you won't get your bang for your buck, as even the older cards were performing beyond what AGP could reliably serve.
https://secure.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/wiki/Radeon_R700
This is the most you can bring out of this system.
To get anything better you'll need a new motherboard, a new hard-drive and optical drive (since SATA has pretty much replaced IDE), a new processor, videocard...
... pretty much new everything beside a PSU, case and monitor.
...oh, and if you keep this system, get some more RAM! 512 MByte is waaay too little nowadays. Go for 1 GByte at least.
* - Actually some graphic cards can help with playback, but getting them to work is a chancy affair and still has its fair share of bugs.
EDIT:
DAMN. This is one shitty mobo.
http://www.roberthancock.com/dell/index.htm
Apparently it can only take Willamete and Northwood processors and has a 400 MHz FSB. Getting good (strong) processors for that is *impossible*! (I've had to hunt for one such processor once when I had a system running with Rambus memory... if not for the damn expensive memory I'd have trashed the system, but finding a CPU took quite an effort).
It *doesn't* have an AGP slot.
IMHO it's not worth to upgrade it at all.
...so if you only have a little money, I'd buy a used LGA775 motherboard with IDE support and buy a cheap CPU (Stay away from Celeron though! It's cheap 'cause it's a *lot* weaker. Buy a E5xxx or E6xxx at least. These are so called "Dual Core" processors... cheap, but still stronger than a Celeron) ...and finally a modest ATI HD card with H264 playback support. (Maybe HD 4730? HD4830?)
If you have some money, then buy a proper system. (LGA 1156 or 1366, or go for an AMD system).
(Unfortunatelly I don't have an English install of Windows XP on hand, so I can't tell you exactly what to click on... I'm trying to translate the most likely titles)
Start --> Help and Support --> Use Tools to view your computer information and diagnose problems --> My Computer Information --> View general system information about this computer
Alternatively you could do this Start --> Run, enter "msinfo32".
Here you'll need System Summary --> OEM System Information (manufacturer, model, and type). The model is what you need to search for on the internet, this indicates you motherboard.
Once you have the correct model, you can check what CPUs it can accept:
http://www.cpu-upgrade.com/
http://www.motherboard.cz/
Since you wrote, you have a Northwood Celeron processor, I assume you have an Intel Socket 478 motherboard. Though, nowadays quite outdated, you can get a full blown Pentium 4 processor a lot cheaper than a new system and they *can* do HD playback. Even a run of the mill 2.5 GHz Northwood *Pentium 4* (instead Celeron) can do it, though only 720p (... and probably only with CoreAVC). If your motherboard can support a Prescott processor I'd get one of those instead as they were a lot more powerful. Beware! You might have to update your BIOS for the motherboard to support newer CPUs and beside the socket, you also have to look out not only for FSB support but support for the CPU family itself, as I've seen Socket 478 motherboards that only supported Willamette and Northwood processors, not Prescott.
You can only upgrade your videocard if your motherboard has an AGP (or PCI-E? I've yet to see a Socket 478 system with PCI-E) slot for it.
In that case, the best videocard you might get are among the the first HD line from ATI. These are the strongest AGP videocards on the market as all the newer (and better) models are PCI-Express only.
https://secure.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/wiki/Radeon_R600
...though recently there were some even newer models for the AGP slot. IMHO you won't get your bang for your buck, as even the older cards were performing beyond what AGP could reliably serve.
https://secure.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/wiki/Radeon_R700
This is the most you can bring out of this system.
To get anything better you'll need a new motherboard, a new hard-drive and optical drive (since SATA has pretty much replaced IDE), a new processor, videocard...
... pretty much new everything beside a PSU, case and monitor.
...oh, and if you keep this system, get some more RAM! 512 MByte is waaay too little nowadays. Go for 1 GByte at least.
* - Actually some graphic cards can help with playback, but getting them to work is a chancy affair and still has its fair share of bugs.
EDIT:
DAMN. This is one shitty mobo.
http://www.roberthancock.com/dell/index.htm
Apparently it can only take Willamete and Northwood processors and has a 400 MHz FSB. Getting good (strong) processors for that is *impossible*! (I've had to hunt for one such processor once when I had a system running with Rambus memory... if not for the damn expensive memory I'd have trashed the system, but finding a CPU took quite an effort).
It *doesn't* have an AGP slot.
IMHO it's not worth to upgrade it at all.
...so if you only have a little money, I'd buy a used LGA775 motherboard with IDE support and buy a cheap CPU (Stay away from Celeron though! It's cheap 'cause it's a *lot* weaker. Buy a E5xxx or E6xxx at least. These are so called "Dual Core" processors... cheap, but still stronger than a Celeron) ...and finally a modest ATI HD card with H264 playback support. (Maybe HD 4730? HD4830?)
If you have some money, then buy a proper system. (LGA 1156 or 1366, or go for an AMD system).
Flaser
OCD Hentai Collector
Because neither or you are giving sane advice!
DON'T FORMAT THE DRIVE!!!
In fact, DON'T DO *ANYTHING* UNTIL YOU HAVE ANSWERED THIS QUESTION:
How important is the data on the drive?
Is it worth hundreds of dollars... maybe thousands? If yes, stop *all* activity and consult a data recovery firm. You'll shell out at least hundreds of dollars and maybe thousands, but they can recover data from very badly mangled hard-drives (even ones literally fried by fire). Any further "repair attempts" may further mangle the data and make your bill ever higher.
If not, but the data is still important enough, then *buy* (...or ...ahem "appropriate") a good data-recovery software.
Here's the no.1 rule of data recovery: You *DON'T CHANGE ANYTHING* on the medium you're recovering from, because any change could lead to corruption. Any other advise you may get is amateurish.
Good data recovery is about recovering your data first and foremost, not restoring the medium to working order.
Things I've used in the past:
http://www.diskinternals.com/ntfs-recovery/
http://www.data-recovery-software.net/
http://www.easeus.com/datarecoverywizard/free-data-recovery-software.htm
...and
http://www.piriform.com/recuva
...a free software has already been recommended. RTFM! We can't walk you through these step by step as each software is different.
...and you may browse here, for more free software to tyr:
http://www.thefreecountry.com/utilities/datarecovery.shtml
DON'T FORMAT THE DRIVE!!!
In fact, DON'T DO *ANYTHING* UNTIL YOU HAVE ANSWERED THIS QUESTION:
How important is the data on the drive?
Is it worth hundreds of dollars... maybe thousands? If yes, stop *all* activity and consult a data recovery firm. You'll shell out at least hundreds of dollars and maybe thousands, but they can recover data from very badly mangled hard-drives (even ones literally fried by fire). Any further "repair attempts" may further mangle the data and make your bill ever higher.
If not, but the data is still important enough, then *buy* (...or ...ahem "appropriate") a good data-recovery software.
Here's the no.1 rule of data recovery: You *DON'T CHANGE ANYTHING* on the medium you're recovering from, because any change could lead to corruption. Any other advise you may get is amateurish.
Good data recovery is about recovering your data first and foremost, not restoring the medium to working order.
Things I've used in the past:
http://www.diskinternals.com/ntfs-recovery/
http://www.data-recovery-software.net/
http://www.easeus.com/datarecoverywizard/free-data-recovery-software.htm
...and
http://www.piriform.com/recuva
...a free software has already been recommended. RTFM! We can't walk you through these step by step as each software is different.
...and you may browse here, for more free software to tyr:
http://www.thefreecountry.com/utilities/datarecovery.shtml
Flaser
OCD Hentai Collector
An apology: I'm sorry for not showing up on Saturday. I was too drunk...
...I still am.
...I still am.
Flaser
OCD Hentai Collector
Pidgin - multi-platform, supports dozens of protocols and has a plugin architecture for actually needed features like encryption, notifications, etc.
XChat - pure IRC client with no hassles, free and won't bug you (like mIRC if you've used it for more than 30 days without buying).
Google Talk - simple IM client that likely more people could use than they realize since all you need is a google account (gmail, gdocs, etc.). Supports voice over IP. Once again no useless trinkets, just sheer functionality.
Windows Messenger is for immature teenagers who believe that writing with sparky, glitter dusted letters with the most annoying blinking tags (like a '90 Geocities fansite turned up to eleven than boosted into overdrive) is absolutely necessary to get across how unique and special you are.
XChat - pure IRC client with no hassles, free and won't bug you (like mIRC if you've used it for more than 30 days without buying).
Google Talk - simple IM client that likely more people could use than they realize since all you need is a google account (gmail, gdocs, etc.). Supports voice over IP. Once again no useless trinkets, just sheer functionality.
Windows Messenger is for immature teenagers who believe that writing with sparky, glitter dusted letters with the most annoying blinking tags (like a '90 Geocities fansite turned up to eleven than boosted into overdrive) is absolutely necessary to get across how unique and special you are.
Flaser
OCD Hentai Collector
A tip:
-The drivers could be corrupted. Remove the device from the device manager, reboot, and manually add the drivers on the next startup in case the system can't do this on its own. This will reinstall the drivers.
-The drivers could be corrupted. Remove the device from the device manager, reboot, and manually add the drivers on the next startup in case the system can't do this on its own. This will reinstall the drivers.
Flaser
OCD Hentai Collector
Let's round out that list:
http://downloads.khinsider.com/ - This place has a bunch of complete soundtracks
http://www.mcanime.net/foro/viewtopic.php?t=7634 - This place has some more, even a couple of obscure stuff, right now they're down, check in a couple of days.
http://oldanimeost.forumcommunity.net/ - Self explaining domain, for those oldies but goldies.
http://downloads.khinsider.com/ - This place has a bunch of complete soundtracks
http://www.mcanime.net/foro/viewtopic.php?t=7634 - This place has some more, even a couple of obscure stuff, right now they're down, check in a couple of days.
http://oldanimeost.forumcommunity.net/ - Self explaining domain, for those oldies but goldies.
Flaser
OCD Hentai Collector
Tegumi wrote...
- Step 14 of building computer: Windows isn't the only OS. I'd really only suggest Windows for gaming.
-If you're building a desktop to work or just watch films on, you can probably build one for 1/4 price, as little as a 1000 $. This does not include a monitor.