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Computer Hardware for games help!

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1
Flaser OCD Hentai Collector
12 years ago
darknessblade wrote...
Spoiler:
Flaser wrote...
Hubs wrote...
But then, I was just wondering is there anything i basically need to replace cause i dont want to spend as much as building a new computer, i just want to change parts that would hopefully be compatible with new ones i might buy. So it basically just the ram and video card i am having? Or is it something else that im missing?


The thing is, you still haven't stated what socket and what *type* of memory your MOBO (motherbord) has or what your MOBO is to begin with.

Given that you have an E5800 CPU, I could figure out that it has an LGA 775 socket. That technology is two generations old now, since the i (i3, i5, i7) family initially used the LGA 1156 (Sandy Bridge i3, i5), LGA 1366 (Sandy Bridge i7) sockets and has swtiched to the LGA 1155 & LGA 2011 (Ivy Bride CPUs).

The question then is whether to upgrade your current system - sticking with the LGA 775 and likely the DDR2 RAM. It won't be as fast or last as long as a system build around one of the newer sockets... however it'd be cheaper.

But first,

Zero: get a newer GPU. The Gefore 210 (G 210 in the chart I linked) is an entry level card and won't do to well in gaming.

Thankfully the PCI-E socket hasn't been replaced and newer version are backward compatbile, so regardless what else you do, get a newer graphic card as it can serve you both in your old or in your new PC.

Graphic cards come in generations. For instance the Geforce 400 series is the same generation as the ATI HD 6000 series. Second, graphic cards come in tiers: entry (for not much more than dekstop use), middle (the sane choice most of the time for gamers), enthusiast (for rich kids with too much money and ADHD so they can't be bothered to upgrade every 2-3 years like a normal person would). Now the trick question? Are you better off buying a lower-generation enthusiast card (which is now sold for a decent price), or a newer generation middle-tier one? Depends... though thankfully Tom's hardware has a nice chart:

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gaming-graphics-card-review,3107-7.html

Check your budget and choose a card that fits it. Whether you go ATI or NVidia is up to your religion, both companies have screwed up in the past, both have one-up each other at a time or two. I've used both and have no hard preference.

That's the GPU.

Still sure you wanna upgrade and not build a new system? Read on.

First: if you go down this route get more RAM. This is a no brainer. Even for general use, since Widnows Vista, it's really worth your while to add more RAM as the OS actively tries to use as much as you have. I'd go with at least 8 GiBytes if your motherboard can support it, 16 GiBytes if you do video editing, rendering or any application that could benefit from a RAM drive.

Second: you could get a "newer" processor, like a Q9550 or Q9650. These are quad-core CPUs for the LGA775 socket, but have 12 MiBytes of L2 cache making them the few processors that can go toe-to-toe with the newer Sandy & Ivy Bridge models.

Wanna go and build an a new desktop? You'll have to tell us more, like how much money you have and what you want to use it for.


it where just some pricelines he/she could follow to keep in budget.

and about pata: this isnt supported by most new systems.

and the msi gt630 4gb is an cheap (could be different in the usa) and good card.
for cpu: amd fx4170 am3(+) socket, 4 core, 4,2 gigahertz (fast), other info is on the makers site.

motherboard asrock 970 extreme 3 or 4 (atx size).
8gb ddr 3 1330/1600 ram.
psu 600-800 watt should be enough.
a 20$ case is enough, since you want a gamer pc, not a good looking pc case and poor preformance.
sata hdd of 2tb (3,5").
ssd 512gb (2,5").
win 7 64 is good since this could use the full ram.
any dvd player that you can find with sata support.




Could you switch out from write-only mode?

What you write is poorly thought out and poorly informed.

1. PSU: Your recommendation is rubbish.

  • Choosing a good PSU is critical as being frugal by $10 can easily cost you a $1000 if your 'bargain-bin' PSU fries your system.

  • For the millionth time you don't need more than 500W for a general use desktop.

  • What you need is a reliable model, from a reliable manufacturer that has been adequately tested.


I've written a million times about this, please educate yourself.

2. Case: why should he buy one in the first place? If his old one is truly atrocious he should buy a *good* one instead and *stick* with it. When I write good, I mean something with good ventilation, ease of assembly and enough space for parts. If it's good enough, why waste money on a new one?

3. AMD: why should he go with a socket (AM3+) that's already outdated where the best processor (Bulldozer) on the market was a big disappointment for the gaming community? FFS, read Tom's Hardware or something.

Beside hardline AMD fanboys, there's pretty much a consensus, that unless you're on a shoestring budget with no eye toward the future, you're better off going with Intel at the moment.

4. MOBO: you can't pick a model out of the blue. It has to be available to the buyer, and it has to fit *their* needs.

5. GPU: ditto. Did you even bother to check the articles me and Nachbar linked?

6. Storage: Both an SSD and big hard disk? Both of those are expensive, you're not keeping a budget in mind et all.
0
tehnores
12 years ago
Since we're making a new PC build now, here's my recommendation, which slides in just under $600, albeit without an optical drive. A new DVD drive is only $18 or so if it's necessary, and there is a $20 mail-in rebate on the video card.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i3-3220 3.3GHz Dual-Core Processor ($109.99 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: MSI B75MA-E33 Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix sport 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($16.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($69.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: XFX Radeon HD 7850 1GB Video Card ($169.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Silverstone PS08B (Black) MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($34.90 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Antec EarthWatts Green 380W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($42.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($89.98 @ Outlet PC)
Total: $594.82
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2012-12-19 01:03 EST-0500)
0
SeriousMelon
12 years ago
You can try Game Booster from Orbit to boost your game performance :)
0
Blue exile
12 years ago
Flaser wrote...
darknessblade wrote...
Spoiler:
Flaser wrote...
Hubs wrote...
But then, I was just wondering is there anything i basically need to replace cause i dont want to spend as much as building a new computer, i just want to change parts that would hopefully be compatible with new ones i might buy. So it basically just the ram and video card i am having? Or is it something else that im missing?


The thing is, you still haven't stated what socket and what *type* of memory your MOBO (motherbord) has or what your MOBO is to begin with.

Given that you have an E5800 CPU, I could figure out that it has an LGA 775 socket. That technology is two generations old now, since the i (i3, i5, i7) family initially used the LGA 1156 (Sandy Bridge i3, i5), LGA 1366 (Sandy Bridge i7) sockets and has swtiched to the LGA 1155 & LGA 2011 (Ivy Bride CPUs).

The question then is whether to upgrade your current system - sticking with the LGA 775 and likely the DDR2 RAM. It won't be as fast or last as long as a system build around one of the newer sockets... however it'd be cheaper.

But first,

Zero: get a newer GPU. The Gefore 210 (G 210 in the chart I linked) is an entry level card and won't do to well in gaming.

Thankfully the PCI-E socket hasn't been replaced and newer version are backward compatbile, so regardless what else you do, get a newer graphic card as it can serve you both in your old or in your new PC.

Graphic cards come in generations. For instance the Geforce 400 series is the same generation as the ATI HD 6000 series. Second, graphic cards come in tiers: entry (for not much more than dekstop use), middle (the sane choice most of the time for gamers), enthusiast (for rich kids with too much money and ADHD so they can't be bothered to upgrade every 2-3 years like a normal person would). Now the trick question? Are you better off buying a lower-generation enthusiast card (which is now sold for a decent price), or a newer generation middle-tier one? Depends... though thankfully Tom's hardware has a nice chart:

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gaming-graphics-card-review,3107-7.html

Check your budget and choose a card that fits it. Whether you go ATI or NVidia is up to your religion, both companies have screwed up in the past, both have one-up each other at a time or two. I've used both and have no hard preference.

That's the GPU.

Still sure you wanna upgrade and not build a new system? Read on.

First: if you go down this route get more RAM. This is a no brainer. Even for general use, since Widnows Vista, it's really worth your while to add more RAM as the OS actively tries to use as much as you have. I'd go with at least 8 GiBytes if your motherboard can support it, 16 GiBytes if you do video editing, rendering or any application that could benefit from a RAM drive.

Second: you could get a "newer" processor, like a Q9550 or Q9650. These are quad-core CPUs for the LGA775 socket, but have 12 MiBytes of L2 cache making them the few processors that can go toe-to-toe with the newer Sandy & Ivy Bridge models.

Wanna go and build an a new desktop? You'll have to tell us more, like how much money you have and what you want to use it for.


it where just some pricelines he/she could follow to keep in budget.

and about pata: this isnt supported by most new systems.

and the msi gt630 4gb is an cheap (could be different in the usa) and good card.
for cpu: amd fx4170 am3(+) socket, 4 core, 4,2 gigahertz (fast), other info is on the makers site.

motherboard asrock 970 extreme 3 or 4 (atx size).
8gb ddr 3 1330/1600 ram.
psu 600-800 watt should be enough.
a 20$ case is enough, since you want a gamer pc, not a good looking pc case and poor preformance.
sata hdd of 2tb (3,5").
ssd 512gb (2,5").
win 7 64 is good since this could use the full ram.
any dvd player that you can find with sata support.




Could you switch out from write-only mode?

What you write is poorly thought out and poorly informed.

1. PSU: Your recommendation is rubbish.

  • Choosing a good PSU is critical as being frugal by $10 can easily cost you a $1000 if your 'bargain-bin' PSU fries your system.

  • For the millionth time you don't need more than 500W for a general use desktop.

  • What you need is a reliable model, from a reliable manufacturer that has been adequately tested.


I've written a million times about this, please educate yourself.

2. Case: why should he buy one in the first place? If his old one is truly atrocious he should buy a *good* one instead and *stick* with it. When I write good, I mean something with good ventilation, ease of assembly and enough space for parts. If it's good enough, why waste money on a new one?

3. AMD: why should he go with a socket (AM3+) that's already outdated where the best processor (Bulldozer) on the market was a big disappointment for the gaming community? FFS, read Tom's Hardware or something.

Beside hardline AMD fanboys, there's pretty much a consensus, that unless you're on a shoestring budget with no eye toward the future, you're better off going with Intel at the moment.

4. MOBO: you can't pick a model out of the blue. It has to be available to the buyer, and it has to fit *their* needs.

5. GPU: ditto. Did you even bother to check the articles me and Nachbar linked?

6. Storage: Both an SSD and big hard disk? Both of those are expensive, you're not keeping a budget in mind et all.


Would you prefer AMD or intel processors?
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