Flaser Posts
Flaser
OCD Hentai Collector
Lelouch24 wrote...
Alright, I did some research at microcenter.com, and I found a collection of parts that I'm consideringhere's what I would be getting from Microcenter (in-store)
8 GB of Ram, a refurbished 1.5 TB Hard drive (7200rpm), a dvd burner, a case,
an i7 2600k processor
a radeon 6750 graphics card,
a cheap motherboard,
and a 600 W PSU
after tax and rebates, the total for the above is $700 from microcenter.
Do you recommend this build? I'm not really sure about the motherboard, do I need a more expensive one?
this is the only barebones kit with an i7 2600k, and it has no graphic card, only 4 gb ram, and a cheap PSU. also, I trust microcenter's return policy more than tigerdirect's.
1. The motherboard is a poor choice as it lack several modern features:
a) No USB 3.0 connectors.
b) No SATA 3.0 connectors.
c) Only 2 expansion slots.
In other words, the board is *really* limited. Don't be frugal on your MOBO, it dictates your upgrade options for years to come! Unless you're on a really tight budget, get the latest tech you can, since otherwise you'll have to pay more down the road when you *do* upgrade!
d) The PCI-E slot is version 2.0. Granted PCI-E 3.0 won't be exploited by GPUs for a while (1/2 a year), so this is minor, but I'll list it for completion's sake.
Here is a PCI-E 3.0 MOBOs for ~$110. I know, it's double of what you want to spend on a MOBO, but the nice thing about not buying rock bottom is that these mid-range MOBOs can last for *years*. (I have desktops that are in operation for more than a decade). You might scoff at this now, but having a backup PC can be a godsend. What good is a 4-5 year old machine? For gaming? Useless. For browsing the net? Actually adequate. For getting work done when you gotta have a desktop? Priceless.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130621
...or here's a pair of PCI-E 2.0 MOBOs, but with both USB 3.0 & SATA 3.0:
ASRock H61M/U3S3 - $70
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157236
MSI PH61A-P35 (B3) - $80
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130609
ASRock H67M (B3) - $80, this one also supports RAID
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157233
2. If you're only going to use a single GPU, a 600W PSU is waste. 450W is enough for anything. You can get this PSU for $45 (almost half of what a 600W costs, $35 after sending a mail-in rebate card):
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Corsair-CX430-V2-Power-Supply-Review/1284
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139026&Tpk=CX430
Flaser
OCD Hentai Collector
softbanker wrote...
Flaser wrote...
1. Are you sure you need a MOBO with an integrated GPU? Buying one without the feature can come handy, as it will leave more room for expansion slots, the board will cost less and the integrated GPU won't take up IRQ/DMA addresses.
2. Get more RAM. It's cheap and will be a godsend for multi-tasking (i.e. a million+1 programs and browsers pages open), video/image editing, rendering (should you ever take up these) or virtualisation (which you might find handy in the future).
3. Never use "green" hard drives as your system disk. These are typically 5400 RPM drives meant for storing large files (films, music, etc), where seek time is a non-issue.
Buy a fast (7200 RPM), 0.5-1.0 TiByte drive as your system disk and add more green disks if you need room for films, etc.
(Another tip: always create at least two partitions on your system disk. A 40-60 GiByte partition at the start of the disk for your system and program, the rest for data. That way if you ever reformat your system disk - like reinstalling your OS - your data will be still safe. This setup also requires moving your data folders (My Document, Pictures, etc., etc.) to the data partition).
If you've got lots of cash you might consider an SSD. For a system disk even 40 GiBytes is enough, though given how much XP has fattned over the years, I'd get at least a 60 GiByte device.
4. Do you truly need that sound card? The MOBO already has an integrated one capable of surround sound. Unless you edit music and need the card's MIDI capabilities (though nowadays you're better off with softsynths) it's just a waste of space. If you're a stickler for sound quality, the Creative sound card won't improve things a lot.
You will need an amplifier anyway for a good sound setup (unless you use active speakers, but in that case you're going for rock bottom in terms of sound quality). That best way to go then is to get an amp that accepts a digital input. If this is something important for you, get a MOBO that has a dedicated S/PDIF jack.
5. For once, I can't complain about the choice of PSU. Johyguru gave this one a big thumbs up:
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=134
...however do you actually need 600W? Since you only have a single HDD, opctical drive and GPU, IMHO even 400W should be enough, heck, let's call it 450W (which I keep saying is enough for *anything*, unless you use SLI or Crossfire). If you want to go with SLI (since that's an NVidia card), it *might* be warranted.
Made some changes on my buying cart.
1. Would this be a good MOBO?
Intel BLKDH67BLB3 V/S/L/ddr3/hdmi
Spoiler:
2. I have my mind set for 8gb
3. 1.5TB WDigital Black 64mb 7200rpm
4. With the new Mobo I think I don't need it anymore.
5. CoolerMaster EX 500w. Would this be a good choice then?
How about the chassis? I live in a hot and somewhat dusty place. I always have problems with my pc accumulating so much dust in just a few weeks and my vcards always burn. The fan on my vcard that I'm using right now is already malfunctioning. It's not rotating anymore and I need to put a small fan at the side of my tower(Cover removed) just to keep the temperature in minimum or else I could literally light a cigarette on it.
I think you just save me a few mores bucks. Heck if we only live in the same country I won't mind spending the all my kickbacks on booze with you guys. ^-^
1. The Intel board has both an optical and a wired S/PDIF output, so it's a good choice for any amp that has a digital input. (Any modern amp not marketed for rich audiophiles with little common sense does nowadays).
2. The integrated GPU is a lot weaker than what the Asus one had, however since you're using a discrete GPU this is non-issue. Having a HDMI output could come handy if you ever want to connect your PC to TV.
3. ...the PSU you chose though leaves a lot to be desired. You can reads it review here:
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Cooler-Master-eXtreme-Power-Plus-500-W-Power-Supply-Review/728/10
Hardwaresecrets wrote...
Cooler Master eXtreme Power Plus 500 W is the perfect example to explain why maximum power isn’t everything. This power supply can really deliver 500 W, but with efficiency above 80% only when you pull between 40% and 60% load (between 200 W and 300 W) and electrical noise level above the maximum allowed if you pull 80% load or more (i.e., starting at 400 W).I doubt your configuration would put a load above 300W, however if you ever upgrade (another HDD or two, an SSD) you might run into the PSU's limitations.
The Corsair CX430 V2, costs the same, actually has the same performance (i.e. stable output at 400 Watts) but got flying colors for both efficiency and noise levels:
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Corsair-CX430-V2-Power-Supply-Review/1284/10
If you want genuine 500W+ performance, you'll have to pay more. Possible candidate include:
ADATA BN-550W - $45
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/ADATA-BN-550-Power-Supply-Review/1268/10
Don't let that +50W fool you, this model has acceptable noise and efficiency ratings, but there's no way it'll outperform the models below.
The Antec High Current Gamer 520W - $70
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Antec-High-Current-Gamer-520-W-Power-Supply-Review/1399/11
Enermax NAXN 80+ 600W or Corsair CX600 V2 (identical internals) $70-$80
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Enermax-NAXN-80+-600-W-Power-Supply-Review/1309/10
Flaser
OCD Hentai Collector
softbanker wrote...
Gonna buy a new PC this Xmas. Are this good enough or do I need to change some of them for better comparability? Need opinions/suggestions especially on power supply and Chassis. Intel Core i5-2400 (3.1G) 6mb 32nm
Asus F1A75-M LE A75 VSL/ddr3
Inno3D GT430 2gb ddr3 128b hdmi
4gb XMS3 (CMX4GX3M1A1333C9) 4x1 (x2)
2.0TB Seagate SATA3 Green
Creative SB 5.1 VX PCI
CMaster M600w Silent Pro modular 80+
LG 24x GSA-H24LS sata lightscribe
AeroCool RS-9 Devil Red
1. Are you sure you need a MOBO with an integrated GPU? Buying one without the feature can come handy, as it will leave more room for expansion slots, the board will cost less and the integrated GPU won't take up IRQ/DMA addresses.
2. Get more RAM. It's cheap and will be a godsend for multi-tasking (i.e. a million+1 programs and browsers pages open), video/image editing, rendering (should you ever take up these) or virtualisation (which you might find handy in the future).
3. Never use "green" hard drives as your system disk. These are typically 5400 RPM drives meant for storing large files (films, music, etc), where seek time is a non-issue.
Buy a fast (7200 RPM), 0.5-1.0 TiByte drive as your system disk and add more green disks if you need room for films, etc.
(Another tip: always create at least two partitions on your system disk. A 40-60 GiByte partition at the start of the disk for your system and program, the rest for data. That way if you ever reformat your system disk - like reinstalling your OS - your data will be still safe. This setup also requires moving your data folders (My Document, Pictures, etc., etc.) to the data partition).
If you've got lots of cash you might consider an SSD. For a system disk even 40 GiBytes is enough, though given how much XP has fattned over the years, I'd get at least a 60 GiByte device.
4. Do you truly need that sound card? The MOBO already has an integrated one capable of surround sound. Unless you edit music and need the card's MIDI capabilities (though nowadays you're better off with softsynths) it's just a waste of space. If you're a stickler for sound quality, the Creative sound card won't improve things a lot.
You will need an amplifier anyway for a good sound setup (unless you use active speakers, but in that case you're going for rock bottom in terms of sound quality). That best way to go then is to get an amp that accepts a digital input. If this is something important for you, get a MOBO that has a dedicated S/PDIF jack.
5. For once, I can't complain about the choice of PSU. Johyguru gave this one a big thumbs up:
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=134
...however do you actually need 600W? Since you only have a single HDD, opctical drive and GPU, IMHO even 400W should be enough, heck, let's call it 450W (which I keep saying is enough for *anything*, unless you use SLI or Crossfire). If you want to go with SLI (since that's an NVidia card), it *might* be warranted.
Flaser
OCD Hentai Collector
Drifter995 wrote...
was going to say, unless you actually installed a sound card yourself, it may not have one.. i know this computer doesn't have one as it's an ex school computer.. or my old one anyway.. haven't checked this one... i assume it's the sameNope, the motherboard he linked has an integrated sound card.
Flaser
OCD Hentai Collector
Sneakyone wrote...
Flaser wrote...
Sneakyone wrote...
I recently did a clean install of Windows XP on my other computer, but when it was finished the sound didnt work. I checked Speccy and Belarc and it said there was no audio hardware, although in device manager it shows up. I looked up the board model # online and downloaded drivers, but it still doesn't work, does anyone have any idea what it could be? I don't think its broken on the board itself because my other XP besides this one is having the same problem.If you gave us the specific model of your motherboard we could give you more specific advice.
The motherbaord model is D101GGC
Stenta wrote...
> I don't think its broken on the board itself because my other XP besides this one is having the same problem.Is that on a different machine or the one you're talking about before you did a clean install?
Its on a different machine, I have 2 computers that are running XP, but both of them do not have sound.
Have you installed this driver?
http://downloadcenter.intel.com/Detail_Desc.aspx?ProductID=2229&DwnldID=19472〈=eng&iid=dc_rss
...how are your speakers connected? If through the front panel have you checked the product specification, on page. 38-39 whether you connected it correctly?
Flaser
OCD Hentai Collector
Sneakyone wrote...
I recently did a clean install of Windows XP on my other computer, but when it was finished the sound didnt work. I checked Speccy and Belarc and it said there was no audio hardware, although in device manager it shows up. I looked up the board model # online and downloaded drivers, but it still doesn't work, does anyone have any idea what it could be? I don't think its broken on the board itself because my other XP besides this one is having the same problem.If you gave us the specific model of your motherboard we could give you more specific advice.
Flaser
OCD Hentai Collector
Stenta wrote...
Flaser wrote...
(What you're not told though, is that this OS can't be moved to a new machineThat's not actually true. I have a lot of experience in scrapping old machines and reusing their OEM keys on new machines.
Then I've been misinformed. I did hear something to the note, that if you uninstall your OS you can "transfer" it to a new machine.... however you might need help with activating the OS. What about upgrading the license?
Flaser
OCD Hentai Collector
There are several tricks OEM (Original Equiment Manufacturer, tech lingo for a company assembling PCs) use to drive down the price of their desktops:
1. They install an OEM version of Windows. It can cost as little as 50% less then a boxed version of the OS. (What you're not told though, is that this OS can't be moved to a new machine and you'll have trouble upgrading whenever Windows 8,9, etc. come out). This can save them about $20-$50
2. They install cheap PSUs. This can save anothe $30-$50... and risks your whole system frying, which they can blame on your "dirty main line" (i.e. take it up with your electricity provider).
3. The buy bulk. This is the real killer and the one thing you can't compete with.
Things you can do:
a) Buy an OEM version of Windows 7 yourself.
b) Buy a quality PSU.
c) Buy used. I'm often amazed at what people throw out in the western world.
d) Reuse old parts. You don't have to buy a new case, often times you can use your old one. (...and buy a cheap case for your old PC and give it to your mom/nephew or use it as file/print server). Ditto for optical drive, or a quality PSU. Even the hard-disk.
1. They install an OEM version of Windows. It can cost as little as 50% less then a boxed version of the OS. (What you're not told though, is that this OS can't be moved to a new machine and you'll have trouble upgrading whenever Windows 8,9, etc. come out). This can save them about $20-$50
2. They install cheap PSUs. This can save anothe $30-$50... and risks your whole system frying, which they can blame on your "dirty main line" (i.e. take it up with your electricity provider).
3. The buy bulk. This is the real killer and the one thing you can't compete with.
Things you can do:
a) Buy an OEM version of Windows 7 yourself.
b) Buy a quality PSU.
c) Buy used. I'm often amazed at what people throw out in the western world.
d) Reuse old parts. You don't have to buy a new case, often times you can use your old one. (...and buy a cheap case for your old PC and give it to your mom/nephew or use it as file/print server). Ditto for optical drive, or a quality PSU. Even the hard-disk.
Flaser
OCD Hentai Collector
animefreak_usa wrote...
Where do you get 450 at? I say depending on your psu.. since he never say what wattage it was so i assumed he has a prebuild dell/hp/compaq/asus, and since 90% of consumers psu are in the 250-450 range.. i assumed his computer was the low end of the stick.
Personal experience shared among several sysops. 6-5 years ago I could've said 350W. Since then, having several HDDs or optical drives has become common place and lately (3-4 years) GPUs started to hog more power. However unless you use SLI or Crossfire 450W is still more than enough.
The problem with "pre-built" computers is not wattage, it's quality. There are tons of PSUs out there, that are dirt cheap... and lack basic qualities one would want, such as noise filtering (from your mainline), surge protection and providing clean (only slight noise in holding current/voltage), stable power (voltage can't drop significantly under nominal loads). Since most consumers have no whatsoever idea about PSUs, OEMs tend to skimp on these (..you can skimp as much as $50/machine x 100-200 machines a month... a nifty sum).
Check these two links I've already posted earlier:
http://www.jonnyguru.com/
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/page/power
...especially these articles:
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Why-99-Percent-of-Power-Supply-Reviews-Are-Wrong/410
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Power-Supplies-With-Fake-80-Plus-Badges/1054
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Hardware-Secrets-Power-Supply-Test-Methodology/522
Flaser
OCD Hentai Collector
animefreak_usa wrote...
Look like it a integrated card aka build into the mobo you would need to disable it. Your psu need to high enough for the card... which i guessing you have a prebuild rig so likey it's not enough for the card. So:A. check the specs
B. upgrade to standard
C. install the new card
Whether or not you need to disable the on-board graphics depends on the motherboard. Some boards will automatically disable the on-board when it detects that an add-on graphics card has been plugged in. Those that do not will require you to get into BIOS and select which video card to initialize (PEG or on-board).
Check your mobo info online first... because if the mobo doesn't recognize the card and you uninstall them your kind of screwed for a bit.
http://www.wikihow.com/Disable-Onboard/Integrated-Video-On-Your-Computer
Sigh... for the umpteenth time: 450W is enough for ANYTHING. As long as your PSU isn't a no name, shit tier, POS, you don't need a high wattage model. (In fact buying a shit tier, high wattage model is a waste of money as it will still be an unreliable POS that can kill your whole system).
0. Buy a reliable PSU. Whether you upgrade anything else, this is a good investment as cheap models can fry your whole system. No name manufacturers shamelessly lie! That sticker on that awesomely cheap 800W PSU is just that... a sticker. Such shit tier products usually can't even deliver 50% of their nominal wattage when under load.
Check these sites on what are good models (most PSU reviews aren't worth the paper they were printed on, as they don't do *any* tests):
http://www.jonnyguru.com/
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/page/power
1. Check whether your motherboard has a PCI-E slot. (Some cheap models don't! All they have is an integrated graphics card).
2. Check what form (normal or low profile) of graphics card your computer case can accept.
3. Look for a card from the latest generation and the one before it. It's better to buy an entry/consumer grade card from the last generations than a top tier card from an older line. For Ati this means HD 5xxx and 6xxx cards.
Flaser
OCD Hentai Collector
PCheaf wrote...
Mr.Shaggnificent wrote...
Spoiler:
the reason given for the police actions was that the protesters camp had become unsanitary and unsafe. i like the logic that says hitting people with sticks is for their safety.
i'm surprised that it's been allowed to go on so long with out much harsher police action.
I was wondering how long it would take for police violence to break out in US.
As someone that's been there done that @ May 2011(Greeceâ„¢), let me spoil it for you.
Spoiler:
They managed to break us that way back then.
Not working now though, someone has died to parakratikous*.
Anyways, best of luck.
Hope you will be heard and that shit won't get too real.
*parakratikous(plural)
Spoiler:
Z (1969) - This film is very relevant to the discussion. It's a french film about what happened to a Greek politician on the left, how the parakratikous killed him, how an conscientious prosecutor still digged up the truth despite pressure from everywhere and how the system tried to cover it all up.
Check it out if you haven't seen it yet:
...and the interesting bit? All of the above is based on real events, when there was massive demonstrations against the establishment.
“Any resemblance to real events, to persons living or dead, is not accidental. It is DELIBERATE.”
Ruthless Reviews wrote...
Loosely based on events in Greece in the 1960s, Z is meant to take place in Anynation, during any time period. In 1963, popular leftist deputy Gregoris Lambrakis was assassinated in Athens, and an investigation by Christos Sartzetakis found connections between the assassins, the police, and fascist extremist elements in Greece. The far-right government of Greece consolidated power by military dictatorship in 1967 and Sartzetakis was imprisoned. The junta remained in power until 1974 with the help of military and economic support from the United States. Throughout, Lambrakis’s memory remained fresh in the minds of the citizens, and the symbol †˜Z’ became a rallying cry, meaning †˜He (Lambrakis) is alive’. Sartzetakis became an icon of integrity, but it is important to remember that while he was imprisoned and Lambrakis murdered, they were both known as communist villains under the junta while the murderers were †˜rehabilitated’ as heroes of the nation. It only takes a bit of repetition and on-message bloviating to rend even the largest personality asunder, changing their legacy with the help of demagogues. Z is about not only the intrigue surrounding the aftermath of a political assassination, but the attempt to bury a legacy and the extraordinary sacrifice required to simply maintain the truth.Read more here:http://www.ruthlessreviews.com/8943/z/
Flaser
OCD Hentai Collector
General HaNor wrote...
Flaser wrote...
Tyranosaurus_Secks wrote...
I was sitting in English class and this random question popped into my head, so I wanted to ask the Fakku Community this:"What do you think would happen to the rest of the world if the United States ceased to exist?"
First financial, then economic collapse. The world economy is too inter connected to survive the sudden disappearance of one of its pillars and the fact that world finance is tied to the dollar makes it all the more likely.
Not really, the Euro takes that place, China simply moves it's production market
More likely is, whatever diaster destroyed America probably engulfed the entire world, so it's less likely the collapse of civilization (which is survivable) and more likely a mass species extinction.
I have to answer with a "nope". When Lehman brothers was closed European business were in an uproar as they've become insolvent overnight and couldn't operate anymore... now multiply that by a x100 fold. For the short term, financial collapse would be a *given*.
Long term, the economy would probably pull itself together, but you'd have shortages of various products for quite a while and rocketing prices.
Flaser
OCD Hentai Collector
gizgal wrote...
We're slowly going through a lot of the older uploads and adding tags and descriptions.As to the descriptions of anime series, I'd say check ANN's encyclopedia. And for descriptions of original series, give a look over each chapter's description.
Sorry if the manga you saw don't have a description; again, uploaders and taggers are working on it ;3;'
For manga you have www.mangaupdates.com for almost any franchise a doujin could be based on.
Flaser
OCD Hentai Collector
Personally I prefer tomboys, since they tend to be more unrestrained and easy going... not to mention understanding of my "hobbies".
Flaser
OCD Hentai Collector
Tyranosaurus_Secks wrote...
I was sitting in English class and this random question popped into my head, so I wanted to ask the Fakku Community this:"What do you think would happen to the rest of the world if the United States ceased to exist?"
First financial, then economic collapse. The world economy is too inter connected to survive the sudden disappearance of one of its pillars and the fact that world finance is tied to the dollar makes it all the more likely.
Flaser
OCD Hentai Collector
mibuchiha wrote...
Drifter995 wrote...
No really, if you go manual, you find auto's are boring as shit, and you'll never want another auto. manual is best.I agree. But when I get stuck in a traffic jam, I wish I have a fucking auto to drive. ._.
How damn pampered are you guys? It's not like getting into gear is a big work, me I think at least I have something to do get a work out... and the clutch on my car is damn strong! Whenever I sit in another car, I'm surprised how soft the clutch is and I can't believe you guys could tire that easily.
Flaser
OCD Hentai Collector
Fiery_penguin_of_doom wrote...
Legendary_Dollci wrote...
I heard that you need certain amount of money to be able to run in a campaign.. is that true?To my knowledge, there is no monetary requirement to run for office. It is more of the minimum amount of money required to pay staff, travel expenses, and etc.
All a pittance compared to the real cost of running for anything: advertisement. Radio/TV time is ridiculously expensive and are the means of getting your word out, making the people acknowledge you as a public figure.
This is going to sound Marxist, but mandating that all media has to assign a portion of their prime time to election advertisements - free of charge! - could go a long way to lower the costs. How get time-slot gets divided is the tricky question though that I have no ready recipe for.
Flaser
OCD Hentai Collector
Legendary_Dollci wrote...
Spoiler:
If you wanna know more about these things then go to youtube and type...
Alex Jones
Zeitgeist
Jesse Ventura
Ron Paul
These are the 4 biggest sources to know more about how the corporations wanna take over the country and how the country is being kept bankrupt.
Im just saying what everybody else is saying, I don't intend to argue with anyone here so feel free to ask questions about it but please no quoting unless you have questions.
I have the usual complaint about your post Dollci. You're mixing up genuine fact with conspiracy theory and libertarian propaganda. Zeitgeist, Alex Jones and Jesse Ventura are examples of the former, Ron Paul is an example of the later.
I'd rather leave my concerns with Ron Paul and libertarianism out of this, however you citing him and the libertarian movement as basic sources of information on the realities of modern finance is in-genuine. Yes, a lot of what they say is true... however what they say should be done about the issues is not a self evident truth, but a conscious choice based upon one's political values.
As a matter of fact I've posted several videos in the past that highlighted the issue you speak of, but did without either the hammed up idiocy of conspiracy theorists or political agenda.
Here's an example:
The fact that you're still talking about "government debt" shows, that you fundamentally still don't understand how modern money "works". Money is not a natural phenomenon, it's a man-made invention, and for the most part is an inherently intellectual one. It has no inherent value, it takes human belief to make it so.
Flaser
OCD Hentai Collector
castor212 wrote...
Flaser wrote...
castor212 wrote...
New question : Is there anyway to keep your firefox bookmark n history? I need to reinstall my OS, and it's a pain to rebookmark and revisit all my fav sitePress Ctrl+Shift+B --> Importing and Backup --> Backup

Read more here:
https://support.mozilla.com/en-US/kb/Backing%20up%20and%20restoring%20bookmarks
If i do this, will my history and most visited pages saved too?
It is possible to save your whole profile, but it's a tad more complicated. You'll have to backup the folder where your profile is. When you've reinstalled your OS, you start Firefox in profilemanager mode and create a profile from the backed up folder.
In Windows XP your profile's in:
C:\Documents and SettingsUserName\Application Data\Mozilla\Firefox\ProfilesProfilename
In Windows Vista/7 your profile is saved in:
C:\UsersUserName\Application Data\Mozilla\Firefox\ProfilesProfilename
...you can confirm this, by running Firefox with the -profilemanager parameter.
Press Windows+R, write "firefox -profilemanager" (without parenthesis), press Enter.

...when you finally want to restore your old profile, select "Create Profile"

...select the folder of your backed up, old profile and start Firefox with the newly created (actually restored) profile.
More info can be found here:
https://support.mozilla.com/en-US/kb/Managing-profiles#w_starting-the-profile-manager
Flaser
OCD Hentai Collector
Trimmed and shaved every once in a while.